Spring Bikepacking!

May was a glum month in New York State. It's been such a run of poor weather that some have started tracking how long it's been since we've had a dry weekend (see this surprisingly thorough article from 101.5 WPDH: "The Home of Rock and Roll"). While I took a step back from long cycling events this spring, I've still been biking. Strangely, I was not the only one who was willing to try overnight bike trips in less than ideal weather. I connected with a great group of bike adventurers through two Biketoga outings, one in April and the other in May.

Lake Luzerne Overnight (April)

Four of us Glens Falls folks rode the 20 miles to Saratoga Springs where we met up with more riders for 30 more miles back north to Lake Luzerne. The rain was moderate when we set out, but it began to taper off after an hour or so of riding. Our trip back north even featured some sunshine (coupled with a few playful showers of course).

Like any proper North Country adventure, this one featured several Stewart's Shop stops. We visited three in total. There needs to be a name for this achievement— a full "Tour de Stewart's"? Maybe a "North Country Neapolitan?"

Our destination was an excellent set of primitive tent sites along the Hudson River just outside the village of Lake Luzerne. We cleaned up by the river, sipping beverages purchased in town as the sun went down. A few determined campers built an impressive fire despite the damp fuel. It was great to enjoy food and warmth after busy day of riding.

I had to leave early Sunday and I savored a brisk ride over Glens Falls Mountain Road in the morning light. I think we all felt pleased with ourselves for having braved some poor conditions. This trip was actually made more interesting by the shifting weather. We probably all learned some things about bike touring in the wet. A few of these lessons served me well on our next, even wetter trip.

Gear notes

Poultney Overnight (May)

The weather looked miserable for this one and I think we were all waiting for everyone else to bail out. When no one did, we made the dubious decision to go for it, despite heavy rain forecast most of the day on Saturday. I set out alone for Salem where I would meet some of the group (the rest would meet us in Granville). My trip east was wet, but not unpleasant. I had the roads basically to myself, besides the occasional newt. Bunker Hill Road's rutted mud validated my decision to ride my mountain bike and left me thoroughly spattered with muck. Fortunately, the rain efficiently scrubbed me of all traces of dirt within a few miles.

After a warming stop at the Stewart's in Salem (coffee and a Snickers bar for me), we dashed towards the Vermont border. It took me a few miles of hard pedaling to get warm again after pausing. Even though temperatures weren't too chilly, I was totally soaked at this point. We picked up the Delaware and Hudson Rail Trail in Rupert and enjoyed glimpses of misty hills through the trees that lined the trail. Wild phlox was blooming everywhere on this trip and its bright purple provided a cheerful counterpoint to the grim skies.

In Granville, a breeze began to pick up and I started to feel really chilled. I decided it was time to dig into my camping gear and don some of the precious dry layers that I had hoped to save for camp. Although my companions agreed that I looked … unusual, the odd combination of insulating layers did the trick. Thusly armored and with a fortifying quart of hot chocolate in my belly, I pedaled with our group (now seven strong) towards Poultney.

James, the owner of Analog Cycles and the camping area where we had booked tent sites, took pity on us as we sloshed past his house. He invited us to stay in a primitive building (the "Sugar Shack") that boasted a dry interior and—incredibly— a wood stove. We were almost giddy as the room warmed up and we began to dry our sodden clothing. We spent the evening around the fire, marveling at our drying garments and general turn of good fortune.

On Sunday, I again decided to head out on my own in the morning. I love waking up in the outdoors and tend to rise early with lots of energy. The temperatures were far from warm, but sunshine and glimpses of blue sky boosted my spirits further. My route back to New York took me through small towns, past numerous farms (some prospering, many not), and several slate quarries. Ten miles on the Champlain Canal trail flew by and the sun beating down on me made me regret not bringing sunscreen. Carrying such a thing would have seemed preposterous just 12 hours earlier.

I had a few low moments on this trip, mostly when I felt very cold in Granville. However, I had what I needed to get warmed up and it was a privilege to share an adventure like this with so many other people (who knew such people existed?). I was away from home for less than 24 hours but it felt more like 48. Physical challenge was always at hand— not only in terms of raw exertion but also the tangible, push and pull of a busy day operating in the world with other people. I'm sure I squeezed more living from these 24 hours than I would have if I'd stayed dry at home.

Gear notes